O-Tags

[Ian Wilson]

Does anyone know if this company is still in business?

Do you have a contact for them, please?

I would like to use this device to set ties for Corner Records on County Projects.

Thanks!

[hellsangle]

Is this what you're looking for, Ian?

https://o-tags.com/

Crazy Phil - Sonoma

[Ian Wilson]

Thanks, Phil. Not sure why, but it wasn't coming up in my Google...

[Dave Lindell]

Since they're out of stock you might try what I do:
I buy 1" diamond counter bore bits from drillglass(sp?) at about $85 a dozen; I use 3/8" masonry bits: and I buy 3/8" lead wire by the ton (well, not really the ton, but it feels like it when the 25 pound [about 50ft.] roll arrives!).
The trick is to counter bore deep enough, but not too deep.

[Robert Martin]

I would ask when they will have them back in stock... I've have used the "O-Tags" drill Tap for a couple of years now, and I couldn't imagine not having it!!! If they will be back in stock within a couple of weeks I would wait until then if the project will allow.

[Edward M Reading]

Ian,
I still haven't found anything better than these: https://www.berntsen.com/Surveying/Conc ... r-Concrete

[Brian Christensen]

+1 on the Berntsen link.

[Jim Frame]

Same here with the Berntsen marks. Nice looking, quick and easy to install using a cordless rotohammer and the Berntsen bit, and very difficult to remove (ask me how I know!).

[Edward M Reading]

I have a Berntsen monument that I set in traffic about 20 years ago that I am watching. It is still holding up great. A few years ago, we started putting a little PL400 on the under-side of the disk to seal it and better adhere it to the concrete, but from what Jim has said maybe that isn't necessary.

[Peter Ehlert]

I feel having the top flush with the surface (or slightly below) is highly important.
Backhoe scraping their debris in roadways.
Shovel cleaning the sidewalk.

In my experience curbs are usually more stable than sidewalks... utilities usually tunnel under the curb, but don't worry about replacing a sidewalk panel.

and for old an clumsy like me... trip hazard should be considered. ;-)

PS: my local tool store has a bunch of countersink tools and bits, many sizes. Several look exactly like the the speciality monument store offerings...and they are less expensive too.
*Most any town of over 20 thousand has a Tool Store other than the "mama needs something" big box stores. Ask the pros where they get their tools and bits.

[yoram]

Good day everyone,

Teddy Ohana, Patent inventor and Owner of O-tags.
Without breaking the rules of this discussion forum, I will let everyone know we’ve had a challenging 2 years with getting onboard with manufacturing. We are in hopes to having more stock within the next month (end Sept) or 2?

Take care and be safe,

Teddy Ohana
PLS

[Dave Lindell]

I just checked Drill Glass LLC and they have the 1" diamond core bit (get the one for glass and tile since you won't be drilling more than 1/8" deep) for $19, or 10 for $89. Each one drills about a couple hundred counter bores (not counter sink because those are v-shaped).
Any hardware store has 3/8" masonry or concrete bits ( I get the 18" long ones so I don't have to bend over too far).
Your worse search may be for lead wire. I get 3/8" diameter, but you can order 1/4" diameter and reduce the concrete bit accordingly. It's one-third the price per inch if you order the 25 pound roll instead of the pre-cut sticks.
You still have to have a good hammer drill, and I've found the little Milwaukee to be more than adequate.

[Ian Wilson]

I just ordered a 1-1/2" x 6" masonry bit from McMasters. We use the larger washers with the agency info on them. I use the for our 8771(b) Corner Record ties rather than simple cross cuts due to the permanence of the larger tags counter sunk in the curbs or sidewalks.

Thanks for the input, all!

At the risk of bending the Forum Rules, Teddy, please contact me as soon as you're back in the saddle! I want to place an order. [sarcasm] As long as I can work out the requirements to handle the lead plugs. [\sarcasm]

[BrianSpore]

Ian, we have an O-Tag at the City of Hayward and Dan and I discussed the led issue. I am looking at trying the clay epoxy as that is an alternative that O-Tags recommends.

[falcon]

I just checked Drill Glass LLC and they have the 1" diamond core bit (get the one for glass and tile since you won't be drilling more than 1/8" deep) for $19, or 10 for $89. Each one drills about a couple hundred counter bores (not counter sink because those are v-shaped).
Any hardware store has 3/8" masonry or concrete bits ( I get the 18" long ones so I don't have to bend over too far).
Your worse search may be for lead wire. I get 3/8" diameter, but you can order 1/4" diameter and reduce the concrete bit accordingly. It's one-third the price per inch if you order the 25 pound roll instead of the pre-cut sticks.
You still have to have a good hammer drill, and I've found the little Milwaukee to be more than adequate.

But doesn't that make a 1" hole? Or does the 3/8 bit kinda throw out that little left over and countersink it?

I think I would prefer the true countersink, that digs out a hole and "disc" section centered on it.

[Dave Lindell]

The counter bore is drilled first, using a 1" guide hole through a lath to keep it from "walking". It is drilled 0.01' deep.
Then the 3/8" hole is drilled about a tenth deep in the center of the counter bore.
The lead is cut to be even with the bottom of the counter bore so the tag sits on solid lead and concrete.
The counter bore doesn't always shatter the interior of the circle and may have to be chiseled out to the 0.01 depth, making a disc-shaped removal.
It sounds a lot more complicated than it really is!

[falcon]

Thanks, We may give it a try. Sadly the Drill Glass bits are not SDS. But I've got another drill that I'll bring in and try it out with.

[Jim Frame]

A few years ago, we started putting a little PL400 on the under-side of the disk to seal it and better adhere it to the concrete, but from what Jim has said maybe that isn't necessary.

Here's my experience: about 15 years ago I set a couple of the Berntsen marks about 0.2' out of position (how that happened is a long story of its own). I went out to move them, thinking I'd use a hammer and chisel to loosen them then pull them out with pliers. After beating on the first one for about 5 minutes all I accomplished was to mangle the top, but the mark didn't budge. I finally had to drill through the top with a 3/8" bit until it separated from the stem, which was still solidly anchored in the hole. I drilled the stem down a bit, then filled to the surface with quickset, and set new disks in the correct locations. I still cringe when I walk by those points (which I do often), but I'm probably the only one who notices the slight difference in color where the patches are.

Epoxy or something similar *might* be useful in areas that regularly freeze, but even then if properly set I think that's probably not necessary. My method of "properly setting" goes like this:

1. Scribe a cross at the desired point, big enough that the arms of the cross extend well outside the area to be drilled.

2. Drill the hole.

3. Insert the plug and disk and drive the disk flush with a soft-faced deadblow hammer. (The Lixie that Berntsen sells is expensive, but it lasts a lot longer than the orange plastic kind available at your local hardware store.)

4. Using a straightedge and a pencil, reproduce the point on the disk from the remaining cross arms.

5. Using a center punch and a regular hammer, punch the reproduced point until you feel the disk conform to the countersink. It typically takes me 3 blows to accomplish this, but you can see, hear and feel when the disk has deformed to fit the hole.