Monumentation In Concrete Pavers

[Jim Frame]

I need to set lot corner monuments in a small subdivision in which 5 of the corners fall in an area covered with interlocking decorative concrete pavers. Each of the pavers is about 7"x4"x3". Even though the pavers are very tightly fit together, I don't consider them stable enough to provide sole support for a monument (e.g. a drilled & grouted disk).

Right now I'm thinking along the lines of drilling through the pavers and setting iron rods with aluminum caps, counterbored so the caps are flush with the surface. Drilling oversized holes for both rod and cap would isolate them from minor movement of the pavers. However, that procedure sounds like a lot of work, and I'm concerned about getting an attractive end result in a high-visibility area. Corners that fall in or near joints would seem to be especially challenging.

If anyone has found a good solution for this, I'd be interested in hearing about it.

Thanks.

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[Stan_K]

Jim,

I've always set RPs in these situations. Setting the cap/mon under the pavers hides them from everyone. Setting them flush still makes them subject to movement. Nothing wrong with RPs.

[Paul Goebel]

I had the same problem recently, and used nearly the same solution you are proposing. I used a masonry hole saw (has carbide abrasive instead of teeth) to bore holes slightly larger than the O.D. of the 1" pipes I set. I drove the pipes flush, filled them with concrete, and set tags on them just like I normally would. The hole saw cut through the soft bricks easily, while using some water for coolant.

Why bother to counterbore the a stepped hole? Even if setting rods and caps, I would just bore a straight over-sized hole.

I have encountered a few tags set directly on the pavers. I would not consider this a permanent setting.

[btaylor]

Tough one. The one time I dealt with this I set my pipe under the paver. I was able to remove it. I also set an RP.

I cannot imagine setting something on the paver itself. I think in the future I will set RPs only.

[land butcher]

One issue is if the developer/owners complain about seeing the monument.
Having it under the pavers is a good idea if the covering paver is easy to remove.

[pls7809]

I would set RP's in this case, if possible, on a produced line or even foot offset distance.

[E_Page]

RPs would be best if possible. If RPs are not an option, I was thinking along the same lines as Paul.

I would not drill a smaller hole for your pipe/rebar and countersink for the cap. The pavers, being individual units, even if not easily moveable now, are susceptible to movement or removal. A counter sunk hole will only serve to better pop your cap off at some later time. A hole slightly larger than the widest part of the mon, including the cap, will be somewhat less likely to take the cap or mon with it if distturbed or removed.

[Lehmann]

If the paver is readily removed, remove it, set your rebar with cap at the true position with the cap being flush with the top of the adjacent pavers, then mix a little coloring to a sack of redi-mix (I get my colors from Home Base or OSH, it is pretty easy to match most of the colors of the pavers) and then place the fresh mixed concrete around/under the cap. The adjacent pavers act as forms. Done!

[Stephen Johnson]

Jim,

Sounds like the suggestions you got on BL, doesn't it?

SJ

Some new twists though.

[Jim Frame]

Yes, pretty much the same thing. I'm waiting to hear from my client, then I'll decide whether to go with RPs or core drilling. (The tinkerer in me kind of hopes I get to acquire a new toy -- a core bit for my rotohammer.)

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[7702]

I would be inclined to try boring a hole about a 1/4 inch bigger than the outside of a 3/4 inch pipe. Then use a longer pipe than normal if necessary to ensure long term stability. Then drive a plug inside the pipe with ls number.

I try to avoid rp's if at all possible. More chance for error.

[Jim Frame]

I posted some photos of the solution I ended up with on SurveyorConnect:

http://surveyorconnect.com/index.php?mo ... 38#p116975

It worked out well, though I'm still a little sore from the install learning curve.

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[Lee Hixson]

Nice solution, Jim.

[E_Page]

That's a good looking monument set, Jim. Did you backfill the slight gap between the edge of the cap and the edge of the hole?

[Jim Frame]

Yes, after I took the photos I backfilled around the rebar and cap with course sand. There'll be a maintenance issue -- the sandy gap will be a wonderful host for various airborne weed seeds -- but the same is true for the pavers themselves, which have about a 1/4" gap also filled with course sand or very fine gravel.

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